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3+ days are recommended before use of your driveway, although longer is better during warmer temperatures. Up to a week will help prevent tire marks. However tire marks can be expected, specifically when stationary cars turn tires sharply, or on driveways with a turn-around. These marks do not indicate compaction. In order for the driveway to fully harden the Asphalt needs to cure. This typically takes about one year. During the first year your new driveway may become soft or tender on very warm days. This is normal. Care should be used on these days.
Proper base material is essential to the longevity of your driveway. Full depth (18"+) dig-outs are the only way to minimize the effects of Winters with frequent freeze/thaw cycles that will affect pavement.
Multiple reasons factor into this question. There are many different kinds of materials used in paving , each have their own strengths and weaknesses. Some materials are larger and provide more strength but also have a more course or porous surface. Some materials like a surface coat are made up of small aggregate that form a tight, smooth finish at the expense of some structural strength.
Pavement installed by the paving machine will also have a slightly different texture than pavement laid by hand. Work that is done close to any structure, walk-way, stones or any other obstacle will be done by hand either due to the size of the area, or proximity to fragile surroundings. This work is not incorrect or structurally unsound, it will have a different texture due to differing application.
Seams often have a slightly different texture due to multiple reasons. For instance, ambient temperature at the time of installation and hand work as noted above. These areas will not allow water in, or undermine the longevity of your driveway.
The outside edge of new pavement is not an indication of how thick your pavement is being laid. Due to the use of heavy rollers (4 ton+) outside edges (especially on corners) appear to be thinner due to the force exerted by heavy compaction. A true judge of the thickness of your pavement mat can be seen while the paver is in use by the operator manually checking thickness with a Depth Meter. ( we are happy to show you this in action)
In most cases "bird baths" or small puddles are easily avoided by pitching the driveway or parking area at a slight slope so as to encourage drainage. However some areas do not allow for such a pitch due to existing ground work. The closer the new pavement is to level the harder it is to get water to shed. Having small, shallow puddles in extremely flat areas is part of putting a non-porous surface over a large area and can be expected. These spots often include areas that have an existing elevation that needs to be matched on one side (IE: Garage doors, or building foundations). However, drainage options can be discussed before construction begins.
We are happy to help you get that new grass growing. Keep in mind, the time of seeding and the area being seeded all effect how long it takes for new grass to firmly take root. Be patient, it does take time. However please note that it is not included in driveway reconstruction unless specifically added in the contract.
Crackfilling material is applied Hot (around 300*F) but cools and solidifies quickly due to ambient temperature. It is normally set up enough for a vehicle to drive over in 5-6 minutes.
Sealcoating needs time to cure chemically. We suggest you not park or drive on it within 24 Hours unless specially formulated chemicals are added to decrease cure time. Longer times may be required if the area of application is well shaded.
We have heard this while crackfilling roads on very hot days. No, it won't hurt your tire as it is a softer rubber then your tire is constructed from, however driving on it for an extended period of time can cause other materials to stick to it, and cause uneven wear or vibration in the vehicle. If you notice something is stuck to your tire. Stop driving immediately, make sure the material has a moment to cool and pull any large areas from your tire. Anything between the treads will wear quickly and fall away from the tire.
Although crack filling and seal coating can serve to beautify your property, they are primarily a maintenance to help preserve it. Sealcoat material is laid down via high pressure spray and has a thickness well under 1/8". The material has to be liquid enough to fill and help seal minor surface cracks while also thick enough to maintain structure on high peaks on your pavement surface to ensure even coverage. While sealcoat drastically increases your driveways curb side appeal It does not make minor imperfections invisible. Crackfill material should be applied as close to the pavement surface as possible while still allowing an overband (area sealed on either side of the crack) to make sure no water is able to penetrate the crack. Hot crack materials is applied hot enough to make it viscous so it will seek its own level, much like water. Due to this it may be necessary to apply multiple layers of Crackfill in the same crack to seal it completely. Minor sunken spots will not effect the longevity of the material, so long as the bottom of the crack is completely sealed.
We use a sealcoat material called Tarconite. The spec sheet can be found in the link here.
Sealcoating adheres to dry pavement. In wet climates the days you are able to sealcoat are cut down drastically. That being said, if your driveway is to be sealed and there are standing puddles or wet cracks they should be dried out before application of sealcoat material with Hot air lances, or Large industrial torches. These methods will achieve the same results as air dried pavement. If your ground is dry, it can take under 1 hour for the sealer to dry to the point of not being harmed if it were to rain, depending on a number of conditions, including Ambient air temperature, Wind and direct exposure to sunlight.
if you have any questions regarding paving, seal coating, hot crackfilling or asphalt maintenance please email use at Prosealme@roadrunner.com